Melbourne is renowned for its distinguished dining scene. With more than 3,500 restaurants estimated across the city, every new arrival must meet the expectations of a community with highly sophisticated palates.
When chef Andreas Papadakis launched Tipo 00 on Little Bourke Street in 2014 – together with partners Luke Skidmore and Alberto Fava, with whom he runs the Conferre Group – the risk wasn’t the concept so much as the location. At the time, that part of town was better known for camping stores than pasta. But Andreas wasn’t trying to follow Melbourne’s food culture. He was responding to it.
“Seeing a gap in the market for me to eat a good, satisfying bowl of pasta drove me to create a pasta place,” he says. “I could have pasta three times a day. I think pasta is the international food of satisfaction.”
Tipo 00’s exquisite pasta dishes quickly struck a chord with the people of Melbourne, who embraced the restaurant wholeheartedly. “The squid ink pasta has been on the menu since day one,” he says.
As Tipo 00’s popularity grew, the need for a larger venue became apparent, and the idea for Osteria Ilaria was born. Unlike a traditional Italian osteria where people go to drink and perhaps have a snack, at Osteria Ilaria there is an equal focus on food and wine.
With their deep love of Europe, Andreas and Luke wanted their beverage offering to look beyond Italy and embrace a more global perspective – a theme that carries through to the food, too. “My menus are not to fill gaps on a piece of paper,” says the chef. His aim is always to serve food people are excited to eat.
Within a few years of opening Osteria Ilaria, there were two new additions to Conferre Group’s collection: sourdough pizza joint Figlia in Brunswick East, and the specialty deli and wine bar next-door, Grana. Again, Melburnians have poured in, adopting the concepts with enthusiasm.